Today I guided Louise Falls. There is two distinctive lines on the pillar. I chose the right side thinking that it was going to be the easiest line, but for the leader it was very challenging. Not great gear till about 2/3 of the way up and the tool placements didn't feel super positive for about 2 body lengths. Both lines were dry.
On a different note, I would like to bring awareness to a situation that happened there today, which could potentially have killed someone, or caused serious harm.
I arrived first and once my guest arrived at the cave, I noticed another party coming up
underneath us. I was able to explain to them that this was not good practice and highly dangerous for them. They understood and waited in the cave. As I was leading up the pillar in the steeper, un-protectable section, I heard a different party directly below me, heading to the cave. I was releasing large chunks of ice, which were narrowly missing these climbers. At that point, I was too focused to yell or worry about them and realized they were taking a huge risk. This behaviour is completely careless on their part and I feel they put me in a vulnerable position in which I would have to deal with a rescue, or even worse, a fatality. Just a reminder to everyone, seeking ice climbs, to think outside the box and be aware of your surroundings.
IFMGA Mountain Guide