We spent 4 days hiking 56 km (35 mi.) of the Elwha River Trail in Olympic National Park.

Grid references: WGS84. Units: metric (imperial).

Weather: Sunny, dry, warm days. Clear, dewy, cool nights. High temperature 25ºC (77ºF). Low temperature 8ºC (46ºF). Winds calm to light south. Pressure steady 1023 to 1024 hPa.

Route: Started at Whiskey Bend Trailhead, 357 m (1171 ft) GR 565129. Day 1, hiked 14.3 km (8.9 mi.) to Marys Falls Camp, 380 m (1247 ft) GR 633055. Day 2, hiked 14.5 km (9 mi.) to Hayes Ranger Station, 516 m (1693 ft) GR 660952 and then Chateau Camp, 499 m (1637 ft) GR 659957. Day 3, hiked 13.2 km (8.2 mi.) to Marys Falls Camp, 380 m (1247 ft) GR 633055. Day 4, hiked 13.9 km (8.6 mi.) to finish at Whiskey Bend Trailhead, 357 m (1171 ft) GR 565129.

Wildlife: Lots of elk, deer, cougar, bear, and rodent sign. Hundreds of Rufous hummingbirds. Observed a very friendly pair of mule deer both stays at Marys Falls Camp. They have been known to eat clothing left out on lines (they like the salt). Sighted one black bear yearling 1 km (0.6 mi) south of Elkhorn Ranger Station 433 m (1420 ft) GR 649023. Heard reports of a large black bear at Hayden Pass Junction, 524 m (1719 ft) GR 660953, that required 30 plus minutes of coaxing to move off the trail and let hikers pass by.

Notes: This trip is the perfect early season hike in a beautiful and wild valley bottom while we wait patiently for the snow to melt in the alpine. The Elwha River Trail was virtually untouched by humans for the last few years. The Whiskey Bend Trailhead was inaccessible from January 2015 until March 2017 due to a catastrophic road failure during floods. We imagined that the animals were very happy to have the entire 57 km (31.5 mi.) length of the Elwha River to themselves for that time. We were excited to finally visit again and see so much abundant wildlife in their natural habitat.

Check in with the rangers at the Olympic National Park Wilderness Information Center for up-to-date route conditions and to acquire your mandatory backpacking permits. Reservations are not available for the Elwha River Trail. You might be able to get self-serve permits at the Elwha Ranger Station, but it is not guaranteed that there will be empty permit envelopes available at the kiosk on any given day. Plus you will miss out on an informative chat with the rangers at the WIC.

If you are travelling from Victoria, BC, we recommend walking on the Coho Ferry with your backpacks. $18.50 USD per passenger each way. Hire Willie Nelson at All Points Charters & Tours to shuttle your group between downtown Port Angeles and the Whiskey Bend Trailhead. $50 USD per van load each way. Leave the car at home and enjoy the chauffeur service!

Mike Blake, HG