Finished a week climbing out of Bachelor pass yesterday, July 30th. Warm, mostly sunny week with some violent thunderstorms Friday night and Saturday early afternoon.
Lots of snow melt during the week, especially up to about 2800m. Low elevation glaciers are mostly bare and flat areas that don't drain are getting "swampy" during day time heating. Sagging crevasse bridges and thinning snow cover meant glacier travel became more complex in even familiar terrain over the week. Bare ice, decent over night recoveries, and scattered icy snow sections on steeper terrain meant crampons were getting more and more use as the week progressed.
Even moderately steep rock was dry(except for any recent rain) on all aspects.
Great place but oh, there is some BIG quartzite blocks that need to be handled with care in that neighbourhood.
ACMG Mountain Guide