Fridjon and I The first think that struck my mind on this climb is how much the glacier melted since I was there last year. Now we start on the glacier very close to the little rock band that you need to negotiate climber right.

We had a good overnight freeze yesterday on North Victoria, which provided good travel all day.

We experienced some rock fall from the South-East face of Mount Collier when we had to side hill on hard ice to negotiate the crevasses just after the little rock band near the start of the glacier. There are lots of rocks that sit on the steep icy slope above you where you have to traverse.

After the traverse on hard ice, expect complex glacier travel through large crevasses where a belay was needed.

The bergschrund was easy to cross on the climbers' right and there is no snow left on the rock band and no major cornices on the ridge anymore.

We managed to keep our crampon off on the summit ridge despite couple patches of ice and snow left on it.