Roche à Pedrix
Climbed two days on Roche à Pedrix, north of Jasper on the Jasper National Park boundary.
Climbed North Ridge, Chimney Route, with one other. Very fun climb on good rock, long spaced bolts to support good, well positioned wires and rare, small or shallow cams.
Some snow in the bottom of the chimney but doesn’t effect the climbing. Water available here but not for long. Snow easily avoided to the summit.
Descended via the scramblers route. The few cairns are helpful as the decent isn’t obvious without good beta or navigation plan. There are very good gpx and kmz tracks available online. One large, isothermic snow patch immediately off the ridge that we able to skirt below without having to deviate from the route dramatically. Water readily available at the bottom of a large snow chocked gully before you cross under the north face. Some small sporadic rockfall events heard to be aware of as the melt continues. No ticks, horse flies, few mosquitoes swatted.
Day later climbed Mosquito, 12 pitch 5.9; on south buttress of Pedrix. Despite the name, few bugs to speak of; easy access via the right banks of a small wetland at the base. First 8 pitches on the lower buttress, last 4 (pitch 10, photo) accessed by the east ridge, dropping down slightly to the upper buttress, following the mountaineers access to the West Ridge if on to Pedrix peak.
First 4 pitches of the route low 5th class and 4th class. Beautiful, sharp, water worn limestone is somewhat clean but, there are many big enough, loose rocks on the slab that may be easily dislodged with long running ropes and rough footwork. We had the place to ourselves so my partner was able to do a bunch of cleaning but it’s far from hazard free. Despite best efforts we had two close calls (in the 12 pitches) due to accidentally dislodged rocks.
Same as the north ridge, upper pitches have long runs between bolts that require good, well placed pro, mostly wires. Dotted line in Northern Exposure for decent is a good overall reference for dropping off the back of the of the lower buttress, we had no problems walking off. Rappelling the lower 8 pitches could work but not encouraged; would require leaving equipment as bolted anchors are not set up for threaded ropes. Found a few ticks on clothes and rope during the day, no other bugs. Ideal bear country on both approaches. Two super fun, climbing days in the sun shine!