Climbing Conditions

Neil Colgan area, Rockies

Neil Colgan Hut - Mt. Little

Climbing Conditions

Approached the Neil Colgan Hut via the Perren route this past Saturday. We found similar conditions to J. Simms in the recent storm snow and underlying layers. Up to 25cms of new snow sits on the glacier on the approach to the hut and much more than that in lee loaded areas. Due to new snow amounts, slab development from moderate to strong winds, and poor visibility we decided against an attempt on Mt. Fay, and instead climbed Mt. Little's north ridge on Sunday before descending to valley bottom.

Up to 10cms of snow blankets the Perren ledges and headwall. At this elevation the new snow was softening up by midday on Saturday. From above the slope leading to the headwall we triggered a size 1 loose wet avalanche in the storm snow than ran surprisingly far. We avoided this slope on the way up by following the ridge to the base of the headwall and start of the pitched climbing.
All bolts and anchors look to be in good shape.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.