Climbing Conditions

5 photos

Climbing Conditions

Hiked into the Hind Hut via Assiniboine Creek on Aug 6th with two strong guests. We climbed the NE Ridge of Mt Assiniboine on the 7th and climbed the E Ridge of Mt Sturdee on the way out Aug 8th.

The trail in is good shape. Crampons are needed for the bottom of the Sturdee Glacier and several crevasse bridges are beginning to open up along the route to the Hind Hut.

The NE Ridge of Mt Assiniboine still had a fair bit of snow and ice in the upper half. This was melting quickly which made for more challenging conditions. We used crampons from below the Red Band to the summit and back. Several large cornices failed along the summit ridge during the day with the warm temps and minimal freeze. We were able to dig out the four fixed chain anchors for the rappels and also used a few slung blocks for the descent.

We climbed the East Ridge of Mt Sturdee on the way out. Currently easy glacier travel to the Sturdee-Assiniboine Col. The access to the upper ridge via the south side required a little bit of steep snow climbing, but the 5th class step along the ridge and the short chimney to the summit were dry and provided nice climbing. Two short rappels got us down the upper rock ridge. We then descended the north side via an ice/snow face in two 60 m rappels. This would also be a nice ascent route to the ridge.

The Hind Hut is in good shape, and there is some chicken wire at the parking area to protect your vehicle from porcupines, but bringing extra is a good idea if it's busy.

Great place to be up high during the good weather!

Conrad Janzen - ACMG Mountain Guide
Lydia Marmont - ACMG Ski & Aprentice Alpine Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.