Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Hi all,

We spent the last 3 days in Mulvey Basin (July 9-11) alpine rock climbing. During our stay we climbed a route on the West face of Gimli peak, a route on the South face of Gladsheim peak (White Dihedral) and the new direct start on the South face of Asgard peak (Center route). We observed very little smoke in the area during our stay.

Snow is melting fast this year. Looks like late July in the basin at the moment. The North side of Gimli col it's still in great shape with ankle deep steps in soft snow providing that there isn't an overnight freeze. We were happy to have an ice axe between the two of us but we didn't use crampons. We heard a few natural rockfalls out of north facing terrain during our stay but nothing unusual. All routes on solar aspects appear in great shape without residual snow. A few snow patches exist on the regular Asgard descent and Gimli descent. The upper half of the Trireme couloir on Gladsheim peak is still snow covered. North facing ridges in the basin appear to be snow free however there is still residual snow on alpine North faces. Of note, there was still a good water trickle at the Gimli campsite.

Hard to believe we were the only ones in Mulvey basin during the last 3 days. That said there were plenty of parties on Gimli peak.

Enjoy the height of Summer!

David Lussier
Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.