We climbed Mt Woolley and Diadem Peak via the Southeast side from a bivy in Woolley Creek on August 23, 2017.

Travel on both the lower and upper glacier, as well as the snow slopes/couloirs leading up to the Woolley-Diadem Col remains in good shape. Only a short section of bare ice in the upper couloir below the col, however two tools were handy for this. The centre of the lower glacier is the easiest travel but quite exposed to the seracs of the upper glacier. We climbed some rock covered ice on the far right in the early morning to try and minimize this, and moved very quickly through the centre line while descending, but it is not a place to hang out and each glacier groan makes you twitch.

Crossing the Sunwapta River was just above the knee in the afternoon with some careful route finding.

Some photos of Mt Alberta, North Twin, Athabasca, Andromeda and Kitchener are also attached.

Lydia Marmont, ACMG Ski and Apprentice Alpine Guide
Conrad Janzen, ACMG Mountain Guide