Glacier NP Visitor Safety climbed the NW Ridge of Mt Macdonald on the summer solstice. The approach gullies are still holding snow, with a couple of short detours (less than 100m of bush bashing) out of the gully into slide alder to avoid the raging creek. Crampons were nice for the firm snow in the morning.
Rock conditions were great, with no dampness to speak of on-route. Rock shoes are nice to have, it makes the climbing more enjoyable. To add to the guidebook description of the route, once you reach the Promenade Ledge, there is still some narrow, exposed 4th/5th class terrain if you plan to do the 2 upper pitches. Don't discount this section as it still takes time and a rope is recommended. Descending the SW ridge, there are 3-4 rappels off slung blocks near the bottom. Stay close to the ridge crest and you should see them.
Both the Banana and Herdman Couloirs have snow top to bottom. By the afternoon, it is pretty soft but an ice axe and crampons will give you added security.
Expect snow to disappear quickly with the heatwave over the next week. The gullies and upper couloirs will change rapidly and this trip report will not be representative of snow conditions in a week. Enjoy the true arrival of Summer 2021!
Chris Gooliaff
Mt Revelstoke/Glacier Visitor Safety
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
