Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Climbing Conditions

I was recently on Mt Joffre with two guests. Conditions are still very snowy up there.

On the approach to Aster Lake there are numerous snow patches and slopes to negotiate. Of note, 3 of the 6 tent pads at the Aster lake camp ground are still snow covered and not usable.

Travel from the Aster lake to the upper bivi is predominantly on snow which made travel easy. The upper bivi is free of snow with numerous water options.

We had slightly below freezing temps on the morning of our summit day (July 7th).
Travel on the Mangin glacier up to the North face was as good as it gets with zero foot pen and complete snow coverage.
Conditions on the face were very favourable to a quick ascent thanks to optimal snow coverage. There was no sign of the bergshrund on the side that we ascended. Aside from the occasional deeper section, step kicking was excellent with mostly boot top foot penetration .

The upper summit ridge is still holding considerable cornices.

The snow gully to access the NE ridge is still very passable.

Great conditions overall.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.