Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Climbing Conditions

ACMG Apprentice Alpine Exam recently climbed in the Lake Louise area:

Aug 30 Mt.Fay
Aug 31 castle mountain

Aug 30th was a day of changing weather. It was the tail end of the high pressure system. We observed afternoon buildup while up by the Neil Colgan hut. There were some evening showers.
Aug 31st a cold front came in strong. On Castle Mountain we observed morning lightning, thunder, and heavy precip (hail). This persisted throughout the day.

Lake Louise - Perren / Sheiser ledges traverse.
Castle Mountain

Rockfall on route, in particular on sheiser ledges and 4th class terrain on castle mountain. Mt Little N face in afternoon sun, caution while approaching hut.

Crevasses on Mt Fay glacier. We experienced good travel with a good overnight freeze. The glacier still has 1m of snow cover up high and bare ice down low.

Other parties, good communication is necessary between recreating parties to manage rockfall and other hazards. In particular the toilet bowl scree feature below Eisenhower tower.

Recommend ascents
Mt Fay
Mt Little
Eisenhower tower

Outstanding terrain features
Mt Fay is still in shape with easily passable bergshrunds. A late season ascent would not be unreasonable.
Perren and sheiser ledges are in normal shape
Goat plateau on castle mountain is soft from recent rainfall, travel is good and an ascent of castle mountain would be recommended.

See photo of Mt. Fay from August 31st

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.