I had the pleasure of guiding Bryce centre and main peak Aug 11-13 for Alpinism.com
Aug 11 we started from a heli drop at 2900m at the base of the NE ridge. Excellent conditions along the ridge of centre peak up and down to the col. No overnight freeze on Aug 12 so we stuck to the NE ridge for an ascent of the main peak. Conditions on the ridge were ok. As we approached the main summit we traversed just below the exposed corniced ridge on the SE side using pickets and ice screws where we could find them. Not wanting to retrace our path along the ridge, we descended the SE face. The snow was soft but still carrying well at 1000am. We dug down 30 to 100cm on this face to the alpine ice for pro. 2x 20m raps off v-threads got us over the schrund. From 12pm on we witnessed small loose-wet snow avalanches on this face. We waited for cloud cover and cooler temps before descending the south couloir, which was in excellent condition. Good heal plunging all the way to the flat glacier with an easy hop across the schrund. Ascent conditions would be excellent on this face with a descent overnight freeze.
Aug 13 we descended to valley bottom and thankfully crossed the Rice Brook via cut/fallen log.
NE ridge of main peak