Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Climbing Conditions

On Friday, May 8 I made an ascent of the North Face Bypass, and descended the Ramp on Mt Athabasca.

With clear skies overnight and a temperature of 3° at the Icefield Center when we started before sunrise, we found a strong crust recovery at all elevations. This crust was breaking down below 2500m at noon.

Old serac debris from the Ramp and Hourglass are evident and have run far.

The strong re-freeze on the glacier gave conditions that would be supportive to boots. On skis, ski crampons are helpful at times.

Climbing from the glacier to the ridge, we had an easy bergschrund crossing and perfect snow for kicking steps. Higher, the classic "ice gully" is similarly filled with snow.

Ski conditions vary, but the sun-softened corn skiing was excellent.

Photo of the upper North Face route included for those curious.

Happy trails,

James

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.