Mountain Conditions Report – Mt. Alberta (July 22–27, 2025)
Objective: Mt. Alberta via the Japanese Route
General Conditions:
I climbed Mt. Alberta with four climbers from Japan during a 6-day trip marked by unstable alpine conditions and fresh snowfall. No clear skies were observed throughout the trip, and visibility was consistently limited due to persistent cloud cover.
Weather:
• Overcast and cold with no direct sun
• Approximately 20 cm of new snow above 3000 m
• No significant warming trend observed
Route Conditions:
Approach:
Travel below the Woolley Shoulder was unstable due to saturated ground and melting ice beneath loose rock. Several spontaneous rockfalls were witnessed in this area.
Japanese Route:
• Snow-covered from mid-route upward
• Final pitches in the Japanese gully required sustained snow and ice climbing
• Crampons and ice tools were necessary from mid-route to summit
Descent:
• Additional pitons and nuts were added to reinforce rappel anchors
• Some stations were buried or marginal—recommend carrying extra pitons and cord to supplement anchors
Summary:
Mt. Alberta is currently in serious condition. Fresh snow and sustained cold temperatures turned the upper route into a snow and ice climb. The approach terrain below Woolley Shoulder poses increased rockfall hazard due to undermined and melting ice. Rappel descent demands extra caution and anchor assessment.
Takeshi Tani
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
