We summited Mount Victoria North Summit from a camp below the glacier on July 9th and found good overall conditions with a few large crevasses opening up.

The day before 4 parties reportedly turned back, with one party telling us they witnessed large amounts of rockfall from Mount Collier strafing the "high line", while one team summited. Choosing the central glacier line so as to stay away from Collier we found easy climbing through largely bridged crevasses in the lower falls. The upper glacier bench had a couple of very large crevasses that are opening yet leaving just enough for passage.

The black band and upper ridge were snow free which made for easy travel. We were glad to be off the black band rappels by 1 pm when the established pattern of afternoon buildup led to a brief shower.

I suspect that given more rain the largest crevasses will become trickier to negotiate, but they are much smaller at the moment than I have seen them previously, so imagine that continued ascents will be possible.

Using the Fairview shuttle from the Lake Louise Inn negated parking anxieties.

Have fun
Ian Welsted