With the Group of 4 size restrictions in effect for the Sir Donald area, a group of 3 Parks Canada staff ventured up into the Hermit basin. We traveled roped up on the glacier, with obvious sags easily avoided. The south face of Mt Rogers is shedding its last layers of snow, but good steps for the lower 2/3 of the face could be found on the climber's right side. The upper 1/3 of the face was less than 5cm of slush over ice; crampons and an ice axe were necessary, needless to say. No rockfall was observed while we climbed up but there are a few pieces of embedded rock that are waiting to melt out. The couloir leading down from the Swiss/Truda col is ice in the upper half. The rock portion of the Swiss Traverse is dry, as is Tupper and Hermit Mountain.
Smoke conditions were quite tolerable throughout the day, with the smoke from the Mountain Creek and Prairie Hills fires staying clear of us. Enjoy the last few weeks of summer!
Chris Gooliaff
Glacier NP Visitor Safety
ACMG Mountain Guide