Hi all,

I guided an ascent of the Northwest ridge Integral to the summit of Mount Macdonald yesterday July 4th. We ascended the route in a day after a night at the regular bivouac site (1870m). We enjoyed very stable weather and dry rock on this long quality climb. We counted upwards of 15 full pitches interspersed with many scrambling sections.

We descended via the Southwest Ridge and the East Herdman Couloir. The couloir was still sporting about 65% snow coverage however, it was melting fast with warm alpine temperatures and this option is dwindling. Snow travel in the couloir allowed for ankle deep penetrations and secure ice axe placements. Boot crampons were useful. The regular Herdman couloir was still 100% snow covered.

The snow on the approach avalanche path & gully is melting very fast making progress slower and bushier then desired. The Connaught creek crossing was very good, we used a series of flat connecting logs about 100m downstream from the regular crossing.

A refreshing way to cope with the current heatwave!

Cheers,

David Lussier
Mountain Guide
www.summitmountainguides.com