Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Update from the Bugaboos.......

July 17th Amin and I climbed the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. It was cold, windy and damp in places from the dusting of fresh snow overnight. We were glad we brought ice axes for the traverse between the 2nd and 3rd summits as it was almost entirely snow, with a couple of patches of verglas. Overall it was a little bit more difficult than normal. (Photos attached)

July 18th we climbed the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. It was a little easier than last week with a bit less snow, but still trickier than normal in the middle section.

Bugaboo Snowpatch Col is still in amazing shape (see photo), perfect boot-skiing below the rappels in the afternoon (but not in the morning as there was a good freeze last night).

Applebee campground is now 2/3 free of snow. Still no running water from the tap, but trickles from snowpatches. Still good boot-skiing 90% of the way down from Applebee to the hut.

I also attached photos of the West Face (looks mostly dry) and the North Face of Snowpatch Spire. There was a party above the crux roof on Sunshine Crack yesterday (July 18th) when we left and it appeared dry from a distance.


Alex Geary

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.