Hi all,

I guided an ascent of Mount Kennedy via the Southeast glacier/ridge route in the St-Elias Mountains May 9-13, 2017. This was done as part of a ski mountaineering base camp on the Cathedral Glacier in Kluane National Park. This amazingly beautiful and very broken glacier is a good base for ski mountaineering with access to three prominent peaks; Mount Hubbard (4557m), Mount Alverstone (4420 m) and Mount Kennedy (4300m). We access the area by helicopter from Haines Junction and established a base camp at 2600m and an advanced base camp at 3150m on the Cathedral glacier. From our upper camp, we were able to do daily excursions on various glaciers including an ascent of Mount Kennedy (4300m) on May 12. We had hoped to ascend Hubbard & Alverstone as well however, unsettled weather conditions and timing did not allow. Both normal routes on these peaks appear in good shape.

Traveling conditions were generally good and snow coverage on the glacier was upwards of 300cm. A Spring melt freeze cycle was in full swing with cold overnight temperatures (-10 to -20C) and warm day time highs reaching nearly 10C. Winds were light and occasionally moderate from the South. The area received up to 25cm of new snow during our stay which provided good powder skiing before getting affected by the sun on solar all aspects. There was a very broken section between 2800-3100m with a complex maze of deep crevasses. After some exploring, we found a route on the climber’s right side of the glacier (rive gauche) via a series of circuitous narrow bridges. This route could currently be the only way up to the upper glacier however, it is exposed to large overhead serac hazard for a 100m section. Crevasses, serac & ice towers in this area are particularly large. The glacier name may have something to do with this.

Finally, the 6.2 magnitude earthquake that shook the area May 1st has had some impact on the glacier flow, crevasse distribution and avalanche activity. Although lacking comparisons, we saw signs of unusual glacier shifts as well as weaker crevasse bridges than anticipated for this time of year on the maritime side of the St-Elias. We also saw the aftermath of a week + old avalanche cycle involving deep persistent slabs at all elevations & aspects out of steep isolated and unsupported terrain features to size 3. What made these avalanches interesting is their short propagation relative to their depth.

All in all, a fun but serious ski mountaineering trip in the heart of the St-Elias Mountains. What a way to finish an amazing Winter!

Cheers,

David Lussier
acmg mountain guide
www.summitmountainguides.com