We climbed the Slawinski/ Takeda yesterday and found ideal conditions. Snowline was at the bottom of the gully, 2600 meters so the approach was on bare rock slopes. Once in the gully there was sufficient snow to boot up it easily but without avalanche concern. The route itself is liberally fixed with rappel stations and has noticeably good rock for the range. Expect short-lived moments of M5-6 climbing with easier terrain between.

We attempted to continue along the ridge to the AA col but with a 10 am start decided two rock towers that would have required pitched climbing were too much for the daylight. Instead we descended east facing slopes from approx. 2900m and found up to knee height snow without avalanche concern, and a useful gully through the cliffs to the usual Athabasca approach trail.

There was a very noticeable rain crust from approx. 2800m-2600m on this aspect, but not on others we were on.

An enjoyable route, the most difficult climbing of the routes on that buttress to date.

Ian Welsted
Alpine guide