Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Missing Bolts

Ha Ling- NE Face

Climbing Conditions


Yesterday, May 28th, I guided an ascent of Ha Ling's NE Face and found a few notables worth sharing. Firstly, the route is snow free, with the exception of a few small patches on the approach. The second and more notable observation was the lack of bolts/hangers in a few spots and an anchor that has been moved to a new spot. The top of pitch 9's anchor, at the base of the dihedral, has been moved to the right a few meters to a more protected location. Care must be taken accessing P9 anchor as there is lots (more) of loose terrain at your feet now. We repositioned a nasty block that was just waiting for a rope to snag it and send it hurtling down. The next main notable was the missing anchor hanger at the top of pitch 11. The stud is still there so, its advised to bring some extra hangers, nuts, and washers when venturing onto this route. We did look to see if this anchor was moved to a new spot but did not see any signs. The next anchor above (P12) also has an anchor hanger missing. Anchors aside, there used to be a nice directional bolt about 10meters into P7 which has had its hardware removed and the stud pounded in. Someone's been having fun on this route at the cost of safety to others.

To the person who altered this route (again), I'd love to hear your rational and encourage you to contact either myself or the local community. We made it work but not without helping a nearby party in a couple spots.

Enjoy the summer!
Patrick Lindsay

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.