Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Mica Mountain Premier Range Caribous

NE end of the Premier range

Climbing Conditions

Yesterday my friend Brian and I climbed the NE ridge of Mica Mountain near Tete Jaune BC.
We accessed the ridge from the Mica Mine trail which is reached using the Sande Creek logging road, just off the old Tete Jaune road.
The road is in good shape. It is steep but smooth enough to get up in most vehicles if you just gear down and crawl up.
The road frequency is RR24 (151.220) though it does not appear there is any active logging going on.

It is about 3 hours to the old mine site. The trail is a bit grown in lower down but still in good shape.
Just beyond the mine site we gained the ridge.
The first bump is easily scrambled.
The second bump has short sections of low end 5th class, which is somewhat exposed and on loose rock. (We did a 20m lower-rap on the way down, but a 30 m rope would work)

Beyond the 2 bumps there is a headwall of very loose rock to gain the final ridge to the summit. We looked around a bit but ended up going left and working up some steep loose mica sand and stacked blocks for about 100 meters to gain the ridge. This section is probably the crux, requiring careful footing. The ice axe came in handy to cut steps and pry off loose rocks. There may be a better gully but they all looked about the same.

The final ridge to the summit is simple walking with spectacular views of Mt Robson, many major Rockies groups and west to the Caribou range.
The decent was a simple reversal of the route.
We took just over 12 hours car to car. Elevation gain is about 1680m or 5500ft.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.