Climbing Conditions

4 photos

Climbing Conditions

Great week of guiding and climbing in various areas. Overall the ice is still great!

Ghost is holding up well as of March 16th. Valley of the Birds, Beowulf, even GBU are all still in very good condition despite the warmer temps. Travel is generally smooth. Wully crossing is best just downstream on an ice bridge.

Murchision falls is fat, blue and stellar. Climbed "But My Daddy Is a Psycho" as well, it's not fat, blue or in stellar, but if you like that sort of thing you'll like it a lot. Rock gear is helpful as the ice gear is not inspiring in the crux.

Haffner is still good to go, but the small slopes above the climbs are releasing the odd rock and snow mushroom as the day warms up. Some of these are big enough to do damage, probably prudent to either be well back when belaying or tucked up against an overhanging wall. Marble is still in great shape, but the walk out isn't.

Today (March 19th) Whiteman's was funky, steep, and in incredibly cool shape. Access steps/canyon good to go. Several wet slides up to 1.5 off the walls yesterday most likely, primarly just below the first roped step and above it. The slide path just above the first step is not obvious, looks like nothing there, but head-deep debris (see photos). Often we think of Whiteman's as having minimal hazard, but in the spring or after a big storm it's pretty heads up in there.

Of note in all areas is that the sun is just really strong now. Rockfall, point releases that grow, wet slurp slides, the mountains are get lively very fast when the sun hits them compared to early winter. Early finishes, especially on south-facing terrain or terrain that has any sun aspect above it is important.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.