Hi all,

We just return from a relatively short trip to the Cirque of the Unclimbable in Nahanni National Park in the Northwest Territory from July 22-28. During that time, we guided an ascent of the praised Lotus Flower Tower via the classic Southeast face route (V, 5.10+, 700m). We were very lucky with the weather and enjoyed stable high-pressure conditions with above seasonal temperatures.

The climbing route was in good shape despite the first few pitches being a little wet. By the time we rappelled back down everything was completely dry. The pitch 10 bivouac ledge was dry and comfortable with a party of 4. The headwall was dry and in great shape despite some of the thinner initial cracks being a little dirty. The rappel route was straightforward and easy to locate however, some of the aging slings will need upkeep. Some of the rappels had potentially loose flakes and required good rope management.

The new trail from Glacier lake to Fairy Meadows was in good condition. It is narrow, steep and becoming overgrown however, it is much better than the previous access. That said, it still took us 5 hours to hike-in to Fairy meadows with 1 week worth of gear and food. Parks Canada has recently built a small cabin at the trailhead by Glacier Lake with proper food storage bins. This first come-first serve cabin is a useful addition before or after your trip, it sleeps 6 people comfortably. The Fairy Meadows camp sites, food storage areas as well as the various trails/routes leading to most climbs were already snow free and in good shape. Crampons and ice axe were not required. Mosquitoes & black flies were very active during our visit; head nets were a blessing.

All in all, a fantastic route in remote setting on a very appealing rock feature. That said the relatively moderate climbing ratings are not to be taken lightly. Everyone in our group thought they could have been higher by one number grade on several pitches. The nature of the climbing, and availability of protection also contributed to a challenging but interesting experience.

Cheers,

David Lussier & Bob Sawyer
acmg/ifmga
summitmountainguides.com