Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Lake O'Hara

Yoho National Park

Climbing Conditions

Spent the last 2 days at O'Hara. Generally good conditions with some winners and some losers from the remaining snow.

The Huber Ledges approach to Huber and Victoria looks dry. Still some small patches of snow melting above those ledges so expect afternoon rockfall volleys.
No real idea how the Huber Glaciers are but I suspect there is still a fair bit of coverage and some snow drifts and cornices on the Victoria summit ridge.

Lefroy and Glacier pk have snow but are "skinny". They are not on my current list of good ideas.

Hungabee still has a lot of snow on it. The current risk of rockfall on Hungabee's West face in the afternoon heat is way too high for me. It is a steep bowl with lots of ricochet potential and really nowhere clever to hide.

Mt. Biddle is a heap as usual but it may be in ok condition by Biddle standards.

Grassi Ridge and Wiwaxy Towers are dry and Mt. Cathedral looks pretty good from the road.

Opabin Pass looks quite manageable but it is steeper, often icier and WAY more chossy and threatened by rockfall than it was even 5 years ago.

Big rockfall this morning from the ridge between Mt. Schaeffer and Mt. Biddle. Big slab of limestone choss failed near where it meets the quartzite layers. Not surprising but a good reminder of what we may need to expect in the next couple of months.

Short nights and warm days. Go do something!

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.