Between August 14th and August 21st the Kain Face of Robson underwent a significant avalanche cycle. On the 14th my client and I descended from the Dome while two other teams climbed to the summit, reporting deep snow on the face and only screws after significant digging. Another friend attempted to guide it in the intervening period but reported watching repeated wet slides down face on Tuesday the 18th and Wednesday the 19th with a couple of days of inclement weather.

On my second visit, with apprentice guide Connor Arnason, we encountered friends who declined to climb on Thursday the 20th after these reports of widespread avalanching, as well as a team of three from Squamish who reported soloing the route to the summit, and predominantly v-threads on the Kain Face for descent.

On Friday the 21st we had a refreeze substantial enough to walk on which gave way to isothermal snow under a thin crust on the face which accepted pickets for the first couple of pitches, then screws for the top few pitches. Travel on the upper mountain was mostly boot deep bucket steps but by our descent ice was rapidly showing through.

We left the mountain to intermittent rain showers at the Dome on Saturday the 22nd