Climbed the regular routes on Matier and Joffre on Thursday and Friday. Walked in shortly after rain on Wednesday to rapidly drying conditions at Motel 66. The north ridge of Matier held 20 cms of isothermal storm snow from the weekend with one pillow around 50 cms. We chose to climb the very loose rock ridge so as to avoid the steepest snow slope on the ridge. Joffre the next day was dry rock to the bench below the notch, which we skipped by traversing through snow at the top of the Aussie Couloir.. We left after a night and morning of rain and two climbers who bailed on the west face of Matier due to snow conditions.

There was no ice showing on the Anniversary Glacier when we arrived, but crevasses were quickly appearing after the rains.

Good early summer conditions with easy travel.