Climbing Conditions

Ideal conditions

Bugaboos - Snowpatch Route

Climbing Conditions

We spent the day yesterday in the Bugs climbing the Wiessner route on Snowpatch.

Despite what sounded like a cold, unproductive few days over the weekend, it was 7C at the parking lot at 1am yesterday and reached a windless 12C at 3000m mid-afternoon. Conditions on and around the route were near perfect. Despite this, we saw almost no other climbers all day and had the route to ourselves.

We were mindful of meltwater-induced rockfall below the eponymous 'snow' patch. The patch is turning black and was producing a vast amount of water and the occasional missile. Great for getting hydrated but also for getting clobbered. Moving quickly past the Wiessner Overhang and keeping more left for a pitch or two above minimized exposure to this concern. Makes me wonder how much longer there'll be a snowpatch there, though!

To avoid the late day hazards of the BS Col, we descended the PS Icefall raps and had easy traveling. There is little snow coverage left on the Bugaboo Glacier flats, a few minutes of wet glacier at the top of the final slope and then none for a long stretch down the ice toe. This slope is getting icier, sooner every year and crampons were obligatory. It sure is turning into a shooting gallery there.

Unfortunately, since we were just in for the day, I didn't get a look at the BS Col, but the firn line elsewhere looked to be around 2600-2700m.

Nearly no bugs around at the hut or parking lot.

Overall, it seemed like the perfect combination of the best of mid and late season conditions yesterday. With all the excitement in East Creek, get it now while it's still standing!

Carl Johnston
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.