Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Climbing Conditions

Visited Kerkeslin Falls and Maligne Canyon today.

Kerkeslin Falls has filled in quite nicely after the deep freeze. The approach pitches are dry and fat. Main pitch is mostly dry except for the top 1/3, where the ice surface is saturated and there is a bit of water pooling at the belay. Not enough to soak your boots but it's worth working hard to keep the rope off the ground. For great grade 3 ice close to town, this is your best option.

Walked into Maligne Canyon in the afternoon to check on the Queen and Angel Falls. Both have seen some top rope action but they are still to thin. The Queen has developed it's standard pillar but it's very wet and needs more time to fatten up. The upper part of the climb is a myriad of daggers and weak curtains, worth avoiding for now. Angel Falls has a good lower curtain of ice and might take a couple of well placed ropes. The upper part of the Angel is thin and could use more time to fill in also. Not quite ready for the masses yet!

The smaller seeps near 3rd bridge in the canyon are soaking wet and there is open pools on the approach. For those who are familiar with the Canyon in winter, the floor hasn't fallen in but the ice beyond the Queen has a scary sag in it, you don't want to be standing on it if it collapses (could be a painfully long fall)!

Play safe out there!
Jasper Visitor Safety

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.