Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

Parks Canada and Kananaskis Visitor Safety staff participated in ice climbing training, mostly based on the Icefields Parkway and David Thompson highway, from January 20th to 23rd. Ice conditions were generally dry and hard, but not particularly brittle or prone to dinner plating. Temperatures ranged from -20 to -25 overnight to -10 to -15 during the day at valley bottom, with mostly clear skies and light winds.

David Thompson update:
- Kittyhawk and Good Luck and Bad Dreams do not have ice.
- Nothing But the Breast main pitch is on the thinner side and the first two pitches are either not in condition or thin.
- Elliot Left Hand is in good condition, although the second pitch is mostly covered in avalanche debris. The third pitch is in good WI4 form with screw placements being occasionally difficult to find.
- End of the line and Lovely Parting Gifts are in good shape, as well as the approach.
- SARS on ice and 570 are in good condition.

Icefields Parkway update:
- Curtain Call is in good condition
- Murchison and Daddy’s are both in good condition.
- Tabernac Bowl – The bottom of N’Ice Baby fell off last week.
- Shades of Beauty, Wings and the Stage - both in good condition.
- Ice Nine is not fully formed.
- Polar Circus appears to be in good shape.
- Weeping Wall left, center, and right, as well as Whimper Wall, are fully formed.
- Mixed Master- All of the ice pitches are currently formed.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.