Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Hydrophobia Water Releases & Other

Waiparous Creek Ice Climbs

Climbing Conditions

Water Releases:
During trips into the the Hydrophobia drainage on January 19th and 21st we observed sudden, high volume water releases on Hydrophobia once each day. Water flows originated from the top left of the climb, lasted for at least an hour and caused parties on the route to make hasty retreats in both cases.

Climbing parties should consider this somewhat unique hazard when planning an ascent of "hydro".

Given snow depths, using skis for the approach is recommended. A well traveled trail exists.

Rock Fall:
As the top of the cliffs come into the sun (~10:30 am) we observed some small rock falls on Jan 21. Valley bottom temperatures were steady at 0 degrees.

Pockets of windslab exist above Hydrophobia and Cryophobia. Photo shows the current distribution of snow above Cryophobia (less over Hydro). Given the ESE aspect and rocky terrain, climbers should be aware that despite a lack of sun on the climb, the terrain/snow above will be warming throughout the morning.

Scott McKay

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.