Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Good Travel to Hut

Neil Colgan Hut

Climbing Conditions

Neil Colgan hut from August 4-6

The main goal of our trip was the hut via the Perren route.
The skies cleared just long enough on Aug 5th to ascend Mt. Bowlen.

The Perren approach route itself is in great condition. I did tighten a few anchor bolts, the bolts in the second last step from the bottom are getting very rust eroded but there is no need to use the worst ones.

There is a small rockfall climbers right of the chain pitch, with some lingering blocks.

The Fay glacier to the hut is in excellent shape, probed up to 125cm of firm snow. There is starting to show plenty of dry ice patches and thinning areas.

Fay looks dry and rockfall hazard on all ice slopes (see pic), Mt Little is ice on the upper slopes and starting to shed rocks regularly, most being stalled by the lower snow slopes.

Happy August to all.
Merrie-Beth Board
Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.