We spent several days in the south end of Glacier Park last week, returning July 26.

Excellent conditions were found on Mt Wheeler NW Ridge and the Selwyn-Dawson Traverse (east ridges of both peaks). There was good snow coverage and crevasse bridging on both the Deville and Illecillewaet Icefields.

Rock ridges were dry and snow travel was mostly firm even without overnight freezes, with the exception of steep south facing terrain in the afternoon. However, deep sun cups on the icefields made for tedious and slow travel! Some were shin deep.

The descent from the Selwyn-Dawson climb was made down the south face from the col between Selwyn and the "shale topped minor point". I think glacial recession has exposed steep rock here and it was harder to get onto the glacier than I was expecting. I would only consider this route if it is mostly snow and temperatures are cool. Even with snow you must be comfortable route finding and down climbing in 4th class ledgy/slabby terrain with no opportunities for anchors.

There are 5 rappels required to descend the Deville headwall in summer. The top rappel is at 11U 473900 E 5667302 N (cairn).

The river crossing in Glacier Circle was made at the lower braids and consisted of 4 channels with water depths knee to crotch deep and a strong current. We investigated a higher crossing, above the upper lake, which looked like it might have been about the same depth and only one channel but decided against it as a loss of footing would have led to being carried into high consequence rapids below.

Observed hazards included the river crossing; some steep, loose rock on the upper part of Selwyn E Ridge and on the "shale topped minor point" between Selwyn and Dawson (both of which required short bits of 5th class climbing); and a few loose wet avalanches size 1-1.5, minor rockfalls, and a cornice fall, all in steep south facing terrain late in the day.

Heavy rain on July 25 deposited some snow above 3000 m which was still there on July 26.

Images:

1. Wheeler NW Ridge
2. Lower Deville Icefield
3. Fox Glacier
4. Illecillewaet Icefield
5. Mt Dawson summit block
6. Bishop Range
7. Sun cups 😬
8. Terminal Pk S Face
9. Sapphire Glacier and environs
10. Glacier Circle river crossing