Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Glacier Conditions

Wapta Icefields Rocky Mountains

Climbing Conditions

Spent the last week in the Bow Hut Area with plenty of mixed weather. Everything from Gale force winds, the last days of warm mid day temperatures and lows of -15.

The storm snow from late Sept has settled significantly, leaving about 40-60cm on the glaciers. A intense wind event on Oct 1 redistributed any new snow into variable wind slabs and sastrugi. Crevasses are at times hard to distinguish and no where near bridging.

Some settlements of hard slabs where observed on ridge features. There is a hard surface below slabs with faceted snow between. Some past sluffing observed in steep terrain.

The Wapta took a very big hit in the summer heatwave and its characteristics have changed. There where already some fresh ski tracks on the toe of the Bow Glacier that skied right over a well defined crevasse. Maybe less defined when skied. There are numerous large open Cravasses everywhere right to the toe. Vigilance early season and through the winter months will be of great importance as new holes in places unexpected are certain.

Throw another log on the fire.

Merrie-Beth Board
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.