Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

I spent 3 days climbing in N & S ghost this week and here is the condition what I found.

Driving: the challenge to Ghost right now is the drift snow and high ruts that require high clearance vehicle to get in. Crossing river in N Ghost is actually very reasonable.

Temperature was cold between -15 to -20 while we were climbing in these 3 days. We climb Wicked Wanda, Malignant mushroom and Beowulf.

Wicked Wanda(Jan 31) was dry when we climbed. The tunnel on 2nd pitch offer very fun climbing and good rest when needed. It's better to climb it through without packs. I found adequate pro all the way but might require some search on 2nd pitch.

Malignant mushroom(Feb 1): The day we climbed was -16 all day and that might be the reason the route was almost dry entire way except a 2 meter section. Good protection all way with good ice.

Beowulf(Feb 3): Again the temperature was -15 in the morning and the route was complete dry in the morning. Everything turned into wet "waterfall" ice around noon, despite the temperature remain cold. Top anchor of 2nd pitch is almost fully in ice now.

Enjoy the good ice condition in Ghost.

Larry
Alpine Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.