Climbing Conditions

Ghost Climbing Conditions

Ghost Wilderness Area

Climbing Conditions

We spent February 2nd and 3rd climbing in the Ghost. On the 2nd At Orient Point, we found a snowpack varying between 30-60 cm deep on the approach with numerous observable windslabs above treeline, but no visible signs of instability were noted. We dug to the ground at several locations and found lot of facets.

We climbed Hidden Dragon which turned out to be in very good climbing conditions. On the other hand, the First pitch of Candle Stick Maker has fallen at the very lip of the pillar. The Joker is still in decent shape with a tiny pillar at the very bottom of the climb, but there were considerable amounts of snow en route and above the climb.
We spent the afternoon in Valley of the Bird and climbed Albatros which was in fairly thin conditions for the first few pitches. The Eagle has a major fracture roughly 7 meters off the ground with an unsupported pillar just waiting to fall off. Seagull and Yellow bird were climbed by other parties and looked to be in very good climbing conditions, so is GBU.

Today, the 3rd we saw an important change in conditions with much colder temperatures (-25 C) for most of the day and important snow accumulation that made the access to the North Ghost more challenging. The rate of precipitation was extremely high and we witnessed accumulation over 15cm in the morning. In the afternoon, we drove to the South Ghost and climbed Sunshine which was a little sun-affected with a thin delaminated layer at the very bottom that we bypassed by climbing onto the right. Overall pretty good ice. From the valley bottom, Malignant Mushroom is looking very fat and Wicked Wanda seems to be in amazing shape. The precipitation diminished in the afternoon, but the cold persisted for the rest of the day.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.