Climbing Conditions

get it while its cool

Rockies ice, Bourgeau Right Hand.

Climbing Conditions

Climbed the Waterfall Bourgeau Right Hand today. It felt appropriate as yesterday was the late great Tim Auger's memorial in Banff and Tim was on the 1st ascent of this route almost 45 years ago.

Beautiful day in the sun with good, fairly soft ice throughout. Short screws were very helpful. It warmed up dramatically in the sunshine with lots of water running by the time we started down around 11am. If the forecast is correct about a big warming Tuesday/Wednesday the route may be gone by then if not sooner. Highly recommend an early start if the sun looks to be shining!

Almost no snow on the approach and we really only got into snow around Pitch 3. Some drifts at the top of the route that I was glad someone else had punched through. Rockfall with the daytime heat and while pulling ropes was our primary concern.

People are skating at Vermillion and Johnson Lakes. This ice is pretty recently formed so have a good look at the ice thickness and consider using these ice safety guidelines from the Red Cross.

Winter is coming but it feels like it is a bit shy about really showing up:)
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.