Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Freshfield Icefield

Mt Pilkington

Climbing Conditions

We did a quick trip up to the Freshfield Icefield on August 4-5. I took the Pilkingtons up Mt Pilkington, which was named after their great uncle Charles, an accomplished climber and president of the Alpine Club (UK) in the late 1800s.

We had a base camp at the Barnard-Waitabit Col from where we climbed the SW ridge of Pilkington (route 24 in the Jones guide), and the SW ridge of an unnamed 3250 m peak above our camp ("Bulyea South").

Morning snow conditions were excellent with good overnight freezes. Crusts were breaking down by 10.30 am on south facing slopes causing ankle deep trail breaking through the crust on descents. On flatter slopes and anything facing away from the sun the crusts were staying intact all day. We also found some punchy snow conditions on ridge features, especially near rocks.

Some photos of the area looking north towards Barnard, Bulyea, and Pilkington; and south towards Nanga Parbat and Trutch.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.