Hello,
I guided an ascent of Edith Cavell East Ridge yesterday. The route was in excellent condition and dried out completely from last week's snow up high. As mentioned in a previous post, there is plenty of water on the initial ridge above the col but not much after that. We used light boots, axe and crampons for the snow slope below the col which made for easy travel. The snow can be avoided on the climber's left although I'm not sure it would be worth it. Smoke wasn't too bad on the 28th but it did seem to be getting worse. And the West Ridge descent is still long!
Cheers,
Andrew