Climbing Conditions

2 photos

Excellent Climbing, lots of snow.

The Sorcerer, North Ghost

Climbing Conditions

Guided an ascent of the Sorcerer yesterday Feb 8, 2024. Day was wind and sun free with temperatures around -8 for most of the day.
Driving conditions were suitable for regular high clearance vehicle, (tacoma with modest lift and winter tires)
Approach trail was half buried by new snow in most recent upslope storm. Old tracks were very helpful as an unsupportive crust with new snow above and facets below would of made for shin deep laborious trail breaking.
Climb has received quite a lot of snow and required waist deep trail breaking to reach ice at top of snow cone. Bolts at the top of first pitch, near the choke could not be located and ice anchor was used nearby. Snow was not showing any slab properties at the big ledge between pitch 1&2 and cornice above was reasonable and most prominent left of the climb.
Last two pitches held good to very good ice quality for climbing and protection with featured climbing leaving the belay on the last pitch.
Full 60m rappel from top allowed us to reach a cave at same elevation as bolt anchor at top of second pitch, (bypassing cave anchor at top of third pitch). An ice tunnel behind the curtain gave access to the bolted anchor and we descend from there. Three rappels total.
Was snowing S2 when we left with no wind.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.