Ascended the East ridge on Edith Cavell today. 4C @ 0400 in the parking lot provided a moderate refreeze after seeing the NF continuously avalanche the day before. The hiking trail was dry till just before first snow slope to the col, where crampons were a must. The initial ridge was dry (or wet spots were avoidable). Fun rock climbing in boots! Afterwards, continuous snow climbing with a few rock steps led way to the summit. The real crux was finding supportive snow on either side of the ridge and swapping sides sure to cornices.
The descent down the West ridge is snow covered at first, but dry starting at the EC-Shadow Peak col.