Climbing Conditions

1 photos

Early summer conditions

Kokanee Glacier Park

Climbing Conditions

Hi all,

we spent June 26-29 in Kokanee Glacier park focused on intro to mountaineering skills from a tent based camp at the old Molly Gibson mine (2170m) on the south side of Esmeralda Peak. From there, we climbed Cond peak and Esmeralda peak. We also traveled through the trunk of the Kokanee Glacier and used the Key Hole as our main descent route. Weather was mixed with seasonal temperatures.

Snowline in this area was hovering around 2200m on southerly aspects and 1900m on Northerly aspects. Snow travel was firm in the morning, requiring crampon use, and ankle deep in the afternoon. Lots of remaining winter snow on the Kokanee glacier. We didn't see any open crevasses but did observe a few sags in tension areas. Some rockfall was observed in steep southerly mixed snow/rock terrain with daytime warming.

We access the area from the Gibson Lake trail-head. The road was recently repaired and it is now possible to drive all the way to the trailhead with most vehicles. There is lots of windfall on the trail but otherwise in good conditions. Kokanee Lake and other nearby lakes are still frozen.

Overall great early summer alpine conditions in this area.

Happy Canada day!

David Lussier
acmg mountain guide

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.