Climbing Conditions

1 photos

dry rock, icy ridge

Mt Temple, Canadian Rockies

Climbing Conditions

Climbed the Greenwood-Jones route on Mt Temple yesterday. Lake Annette seems low enough to walk around the shoreline. The snowpatch below the base of the route is small and we did not require crampons there. The route was dry, except for the stream beside Pitch 1, and less natural rockfall was heard from the adjacent Sphinx face than we expected (but enough we were happy to have completed the approach pitch just left of the waterfall draining the face, and the scrambling above, early). Further right, the Dolphin is in dry late summer condition, missing alot of snow/ice. Minor icefall was observed from the N Face seracs late afternoon, but a large tower looks set to collapse soon near the East end of the seracs. Thick smoke thinned throughout the day, and was better with elevation than at valley floor. The upper East ridge is 50/50 ice and snow (isothermal where thin), with most small crevasses visible but a few cornice moats less obvious. We were happy to each have mountain boots, axe and crampons. One old cornice (of old firn snow) in particular, near the top, seems hard to anticipate and to avoid (traversing low on the N side would minimize your exposure but is steep and icy).
PS Smoke increased as I drove North to Jasper last night, but is slowly improving throughout the day.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.