Just got back from a course with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures based out of the Kain Hut from July 4-9. Parties from our group climbed the West Ridge of Pigeon, the Kain Route on Bugaboo, as well as several objectives in the Crescent area.

Some notes: The central Spires area in the Bugaboos is in very dry conditions for early July. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col appears in very rough shape, equivalent or worse than at the end of last August, and we stayed well clear of the area and used the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers instead. Approaches to rock routes like Lion’s Way are drying out and becoming more at risk of moving rock in the boulders. Still, the Bugaboo Glacier approach to the west end of Pigeon is holding up well, with some early season loose rock on the benches below Son of Snowpatch.

The new rockfall off Snowpatch is very prominent!