Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Climbing Conditions

Just got back from a course with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures based out of the Kain Hut from July 4-9. Parties from our group climbed the West Ridge of Pigeon, the Kain Route on Bugaboo, as well as several objectives in the Crescent area.

Some notes: The central Spires area in the Bugaboos is in very dry conditions for early July. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col appears in very rough shape, equivalent or worse than at the end of last August, and we stayed well clear of the area and used the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers instead. Approaches to rock routes like Lion’s Way are drying out and becoming more at risk of moving rock in the boulders. Still, the Bugaboo Glacier approach to the west end of Pigeon is holding up well, with some early season loose rock on the benches below Son of Snowpatch.

The new rockfall off Snowpatch is very prominent!

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.