We just returned from an overnight trip to the Colgan Hut. We planned to climb Mt Fay W Ridge but the snow faces used to gain the ridge are showing a lot of gravel and rock embedded ice. The Chouinard and Centre Ice Bulge routes look whiter although we couldn’t see them in their entirety. The Roth/Kallen doesn’t seem to exist anymore. The Mt Little face is also dirty gravel and rock. Bergschrunds are huge. We elected to climb Bowlen (dry) and Perren, which still has good snow to the ridge. Mt Allen has snow patches above the traverse that are spitting rocks.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide