Mount Victoria North Peak
We climbed the NE Ridge of North Victoria on September 8.
Firn line on the glacier is at over 2800 m now. This means you can see most of the crevasses in the most broken sections but it is tedious to get around them. We chose to take the longer line around to the south (climbers left) which gives fewer crevasses, is lower angled terrain, and has less rockfall hazard. Parties on Saturday were taking the central line on the glacier, which would be faster.
We easily crossed the schrund on the right, beneath Collier. From there it was some loose scrambling to 60 m of steeper climbing on firmer rock (two 30 m raps on descent).
The upper part of the mountain is mostly dry with some snow patches. We were able to utilize frozen bucket steps from Saturday’s parties.