Climbing Conditions

Dry Conditions

Mount Victoria North Peak

Climbing Conditions

We climbed the NE Ridge of North Victoria on September 8.

Firn line on the glacier is at over 2800 m now. This means you can see most of the crevasses in the most broken sections but it is tedious to get around them. We chose to take the longer line around to the south (climbers left) which gives fewer crevasses, is lower angled terrain, and has less rockfall hazard. Parties on Saturday were taking the central line on the glacier, which would be faster.

We easily crossed the schrund on the right, beneath Collier. From there it was some loose scrambling to 60 m of steeper climbing on firmer rock (two 30 m raps on descent).

The upper part of the mountain is mostly dry with some snow patches. We were able to utilize frozen bucket steps from Saturday’s parties.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.