Climbing Conditions

3 photos

Devil’s Gap climbing

Devil’s Gap

Climbing Conditions

Climbed Wicked Wanda and Malignant Mushroom yesterday. Both climbs are in quite fat condition, and the approaches are easy and straightforward, with well-broken trails, which is where the similarities end.

Wanda is refreezing well, with brittle and calf-pumping smooth ice on the first pitch. The second pitch has some wild features, with an easier line heading up through some exposed tunnel features in the upper chandeliers.

Malignant is getting hammered by the sun. Lots of snice on the climb, especially the first and last quarters. The middle section is hard to protect but climbs well using a stemming groove to get around a few small roof features.

The drive to Devil’s Gap is reasonable, but the hard slab and deep ruts make it very inadvisable with anything less than a high-clearance vehicle.

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.