Conditions noted in the Columbia Icefields area the past few days:

General
Drier here than in other parts of the range. With the hot spell the faces are turning to ice quickly. Decent coverage and travel conditions on the glaciers but that could change with continued warm temperatures and minimal overnight freezes. Lots of snow on Parkers for training purposes.

Hilda Peak
Mostly snow free

Boundary Glacier
Decent snow coverage on both access routes and all the way to the A2 Col. I bet this changes fast.

North Glacier
Snow down to the normal access point. Left access tongue is ice. Decent crevasse coverage on approaches to the ramp, Silverhorn, and north face.

Athabasca North Face
Regular and Bypass routes are mostly ice. The Hourglass doesn’t really exist anymore, mostly a rock climb. Silverhorn 50% ice.

Andromeda
Skyladder is ice at the top and narrow snow gulleys with avalanche runnels in them in the lower section. West Shoulder is a rock climb. Photo Finish is seracy at the top these days. I expect the North Face to be ice but haven’t seen it.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide