Climbing Conditions

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Climbing Conditions

just completed a four-day trip in the Bugaboos.

Overall, conditions are holding up well despite the higher-than-average snowpack this season. Glacier travel remains pleasant, with good snow coverage on the Bugaboo Glacier.

The BS Col is beginning to melt out. There are now approximately 10–20 metres of exposed rock and dirt below the upper rappel chains. A well-established boot track exists, but the descent is becoming increasingly hazardous, particularly when multiple parties are using it at the same time. We descended via the BS Col on our first day while we had it to ourselves. Numerous loose rocks are melting out of the snow, and rockfall hazard is increasing. This area remains a significant concern.

The ice core below the Crescent Towers continues to be tenuous, consistent with previous years. Travel through this area is unstable. Exposure to this hazard can be avoided by following the track on the west side of the Upper Crescent Tarn

On The Map

These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.